61 litres of unleaded into what Harley-Davidson claims is an 18.9-litre tank* – that's an awful 13.43 litres/100km.

Later I got more than 300km from a tank on a gentle spin through the winelands - which is what this cruise liner was built for.

Harley transmissions have been the same since the Motor Company tightened the tolerances on its gearboxes in 2000: light, positive, with commendably short lever throw, but impressively vocal. Neutral is easy to find, just as well since the (very small) neutral light is on the top of the tank and invisible in sunlight.

The enormous clutch is remarkably light, with a distinctive over-centre action, but its take-up is smooth, hot or cold, making this behemoth easier to ride in traffic than you'd think. Final drive, as always on a Harley, is by toothed belt, which not only makes a cush drive unnecessary but also means no chain lube.

The running gear is standard Electra Glide, with shrouded forks, two front discs and four-pot callipers. Milwaukee has done its best to improve its products' poor braking and this one at least stops on command.

It doesn't brake so good because 332kg of American ironmongery and 106kg of Abrahams takes a lot of stopping, even with decent equipment. There's another disc and a pair of surprisingly effective air-assisted shocks at the back while the chromed cast wheels are unique to the model.

Smooth styling

The Road King Custom echoes the low, smooth California look; there's nothing but a little chromed cover and what used to be known as a fly-screen (also chromed) above the huge, 1950s-style headlight. The instruments are in the usual Milwaukee bulkhead on top of the tank, so far from the rider's view that most people ride by ear.

The saddle is a design failure; it's comfortable for about 200km but the pillion pad slopes backwards so the passenger is in danger of becoming intimately acquainted with the tail light. That's not my comment; Superbiker Rob Cragg said it after I gave him a lift back to the pits.

The rider's feet rest on commodious footboards, the pillion gets large, streamlined foot pegs.

Weatherproof panniers

The panniers are made of vinyl stretched over heavy plastic mouldings, strong and weatherproof with cable-operated catches. The buttons, large enough to find in the dark, are hidden on the inside but it takes two hands to open the lid so you first have to put down whatever you want to pack.

They're large from the side but so narrow it's hard to insert a camera or even a bulky jacket. Pack carefully and they'll take a week's socks 'n undies. Cans? Pack individually.

The seating position is upright and relaxed at boulevard speeds but the "pullback beach bars" steer the bike like a wheelbarrow. Anything more than 120km/h tests upper-body strength and a slow weave sets in beyond 150.

Handling is better than expected; the bike turns in smartly (though with a pronounced tiller effect from the bars) and, once settled on line, seems impervious to all but the worst surfaces. The suspension soaks up bumps without transferring them to your spine – important when you're sitting bolt upright.

Accessorise it

A Harley is more a process than an object; that's why the accessories catalogue has 832 pages. You'll need a windshield (page 331) and a touring saddle (page 339) to do serious distance on the Road King Custom - or you can trim it with chromed bolt-ons (pages 369-389) to push the California look.

Your Harley is what you make it.

As issued, the Road King Custom is a fine tool with which to enjoy the sights and smells of the country. Chill, china!